Maintenance Monday: Under The Hood Checks

While not as critical as it used to be, checking under the hood periodically can head off problems before they become costly.

First: Safety ---- Read the safety warnings in your owners manual and any safety warning stickers that may be under the hood. If the engine has been running for any length of time, there are areas under the hood that can be very hot. Except for checking transmission fluid level, all checks should be done while the engine is turned off.

The following items should be checked periodically:

• Engine oil level
• Transmission fluid
• Brake fluid
• Power steering fluid
• Coolant (Antifreeze) level
• Battery
• Windshield washer solvent
• Belts & Hoses
• Windshield wiper blades

Engine Oil
This is the most important under-hood check you can do.  An engine cannot run without oil even for a minute without serious engine damage or total destruction! To check the oil level, make sure that the engine is turned off, then find the engine oil dipstick and remove it. With a paper towel or rag, wipe off the end of the stick and notice the markings on it. You will usually see a mark for "Full" and another mark for "Add." Check your owners manual to be sure. Push the stick back into the tube until it seats then immediately pull it out to see the oil level. You should not add oil unless the level is below the "Add" mark and NEVER add oil to bring the level above the "Full" mark. 

Transmission fluid
Most automatic transmissions should be checked while the engine is running. Check your owners manual to be sure. Also make sure the car is on a level surface and fully warmed up. Pull the transmission dipstick out, wipe off the end and note the markings on the end of the stick. The usual markings are "Full" and "Add 1 pint." Push the stick into the tube until it seats, then immediately pull it out to see the fluid level. Transmission fluid should be pink or red in color with the look and consistency of cherry cough syrup.  If the fluid is a muddy brown or has a burnt smell, have it checked by a mechanic. As with the engine, never add fluid unless it is below the "Add" mark and never bring it above the "Full" mark. Make sure you use the correct transmission fluid for your vehicle. If you plan to add Transmission fluid yourself, you should know that fluid usually comes in quarts, but the level may not be low enough to take the full quart.  Also, you will need a special funnel to get the fluid into the small tube that the dipstick came out of

Brake fluid
The brake fluid reservoir is under the hood right in front of the steering wheel. Most cars today have a transparent reservoir so that you can see the level without opening the cover. The brake fluid level will drop slightly as the brake pads wear out. This is a normal condition and you shouldn't worry about it. If the level drops noticeably over a short period of time or goes down to about two thirds full, have your brakes checked as soon as possible. NEVER PUT ANYTHING BUT APPROVED BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR BRAKES. ANYTHING ELSE CAN CAUSE SUDDEN BRAKE FAILURE!  Keep the reservoir covered except for the amount of time you need to fill it and never leave a can of brake fluid uncovered. Brake fluid must maintain a very high boiling point .Exposure to air will cause the fluid to absorb moisture which will lower that boiling point.

Power steering fluid
The power steering fluid reservoir usually has a small dipstick attached to the cap. Remove the cap and check the fluid level. The level should not change more than the normal range on the stick. If you have to add fluid more than once or twice a year, then have the system checked for leaks. These systems are easily damaged if you drive while the fluid is very low. Another warning of low power steering fluid is a buzzing noise when you turn the steering wheel at slow speeds.

Coolant (Antifreeze) level
Never open the radiator of a car that has just been running. The cooling system of a car is under high pressure with fluid that is usually hotter than boiling water. Look for the cooling system reserve tank, somewhere near the radiator. It is usually translucent white so you can see the fluid level without opening it. (Do not confuse it with the windshield washer tank). The reserve tank will have two marks on the side of it. "FULL HOT" and "FULL COLD." If the level frequently goes below "full cold" after adding fluid, you probably have a leak which should be checked as soon as possible. Today's engines are much more susceptible to damage from overheating, so do not neglect this important system.

Battery
Most batteries today are "maintenance free" which simply means that you can't check the water level. This doesn't mean however, that there is nothing to check. The main things to check are the top of the battery which should be clean and dry, and the terminal connections which should be clean and tight. If the top of the battery continuously becomes damp or corroded soon after cleaning, then have the charging system and battery checked by your mechanic.

Windshield washer solvent
Windshield washer solvent is readily available by the gallon in auto supply stores as well as supermarkets and it is cheap. It is fine to use with or without adding water but will clean better undiluted. Never dilute it during winter months to insure that it retains its antifreeze protection.

Belts & Hoses
In most cases your mechanic can check your belts and hoses when you bring in the car for an oil change. However, if you get your oil changed by some quick lube type centers, belts and hoses may not be on their list of items to check in which case you're on your own. These checks are best done while the car is cold.

Belts are used to drive a number of components on an engine including: the water pump, power steering pump, air conditioner, alternator and an emission control pump. Some later model cars have a single "serpentine" belt that handles everything. This type of belt looks flat on one side with several ribs on the other side. You should check the ribbed side for signs of dry and cracked rubber. Serpentine belts are usually self adjusting and very durable. They should last about 30,000 miles. The other type of belt is called a "V" belt and is adjustable. There is usually more than one to an engine, sometimes three or four. Check each one for cracks and tightness and have them replaced if you find any problems. Some V belts are hard to reach but no less important so if you can't reach it to check then have your mechanic do it periodically.

Hoses should be checked visually and by feel. You are looking for dry cracked rubber, especially at the ends where they are attached. You should also check the ends for any signs of ballooning.
 
Source

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Maintenance Monday: Getting Your Vehicle Ready For Summer

Summer's heat, dust, and stop-and-go traffic, will take their toll on your vehicle. Add the effects of last winter, and you could be poised for a breakdown. You can lessen the odds of mechanical failure through periodic maintenance...Your vehicle should last longer and command a higher resale price, too!

Some of the following tips are easy to do; others require a skilled auto technician.

• Air Conditioning

  A marginally operating system will fail in hot weather. Have the system examined by a qualified technician. Newer models have cabin air filters that clean the air entering the heating and air conditioning system. Check your owner's manual for location and replacement interval
  

• Cooling System

  The greatest cause of summer breakdowns is overheating. The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled about every 24 months. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is usually recommended.) DIYers, never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a pro.
   

• Oil

  Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual more often (every 3,000 miles) if you make frequent short jaunts, extended trips with lots of luggage, or tow a trailer.
  

• Engine Performance

  Replace other filters (air, fuel, PCV, etc.) as recommended more often in dusty conditions. Get engine drive-ability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good shop.
  

• Windshield Wipers

  A dirty windshield causes eye fatigue and can pose a safety hazard. Replace worn blades and get plenty of windshield washer solvent.
  

• Lights

  Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean dirt and insects from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.
  

• Tires

  Have your tires rotated about every 5,000 miles. Check tire pressures once a month; check them while they're cold before driving for any distance. Don't forget to check your spare as well and be sure the jack is in good condition. Examine tires for tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. An alignment is warranted if there's uneven tread wear or if your vehicle pulls to one side.
  

• Brakes

  Brakes should be inspected as recommended in your manual, or sooner if you notice pulsations, grabbing, noises, or longer stopping distance. Minor brake problems should be corrected promptly.

• Battery

  Batteries can fail any time of year. The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check the fluid level monthly.Avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.

• Emergencies

  Carry some basic tools — ask a technician for suggestions. Also include a first aid kit, flares, and a flashlight.
  

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Maintenance Monday: Windshield Wiper Replacement

Windshield wipers are an often overlooked part of your car's safety system. If your windshield wipers are not working properly, it can be difficult to see when it rains. Faulty windshield wiper blades can smear your windshield, creating visibility hazards. So, it's important to make sure your wiper blades are in good shape.

What Needs To Be Done:

Windshield wiper blades need to be inspected and replaced, if needed, on a regular basis.

Why Do It?

• Windshield wiper blades are made out of rubber, which can wear even with limited use.
• By being certain that your windshield wiper blades are in optimum condition, you are ensuring the safety of your vehicle and its passengers.
• If you are driving your car in pouring rain, snow or sleet, worn-out wiper blades can impede the wipers' ability to clean the windshield, which can limit your visibility.
• Making sure your windshield wipers are newly inspected and replaced, if necessary, can help ensure safety.

How Often?

The frequency at which your windshield wiper blades need replacement depends, in part, on the conditions where you live and drive. Some general information is listed below, but always defer to your car owner's manual and the information that comes with your wiper blades for advice on maintenance.

	Check?	Replacement?
Sunny, Hot Climate	At least every six months	At least once yearly
Even if you use your wipers very little, the hot sun can damage the rubber on your wiper blades, making the wipers unusable,according to Autos.yahoo.com.
Cold Climate	At least every six months	At least once yearly
According to Autos.com, the grit and salt used in cold climates can wear out the rubber wiper blades quickly.
Dusty And Sandy Regions	Every several months	Every six months to a year
If you regularly drive in dusty or sandy areas, even if you don't use your wipers often, grit and sand can accumulate around and on the wiper blade, resulting in fast wear.

---

How to Do It:

Changing your wiper blades is simple. If you're unsure about your wiper blade-changing abilities, it's always a good idea to leave it to the professionals. This is something that is often done when you take your car in for an oil change, so ask your car dealership or quick-lube shop about it the next time you go in. But, if you want to do it yourself, you can follow these steps:

Step 1. Remove the old wiper.

Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield, depress the small tab and slide the blade off the arm.

Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield and depress the small tab on the underside of the wiper where it meets the wiper arm. When the tab is depressed, slide the wiper blade off the arm by pulling the center toward the bottom of the arm.

Step 2. Line up the new wiper blade with the arm.

Move the hook on the arm over the plastic clip on the new wiper blade.

Step 3. Pull it tight.

Attach the new wiper blade, making sure it clicks into place.

Pull the wiper blade tight onto the arm. You will hear a clicking sound when it clicks into place. Now, simply lower the arm slowly back onto the windshield and repeat this process on the other wiper arm.

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Remember, you should always consult the owner's manual to find out the best windshield wipers for your vehicle and best practices for optimal maintenance.

Tips provided by Allstate

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Tips Automotive hosts Media Appreciation Day

Today I had the pleasure of attending Tips Automotives 'Media Appreciation Day' this was right on time because BlueBird aka my 2006 Dodge Stratus was BEYOND dirty -- My car was cleaned to perfection and now I'm riding in style. I will be back in a few weeks to get my much needed oil change. You should definitely check them out they are located at 2081 Bolton Rd, Atlanta, Ga 30318 and online at http://tipsatl.com/

Many thanks to the ladies at Theory Communication for the invitation

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Fall Car Care Month Checklist

October is Fall Car Care Month, and the Car Care Council reminds motorists that checking their vehicles before the temperatures drop is a sensible way to avoid being stranded out in the cold and the unexpected expense of emergency repairs.

“The last thing any driver needs is a vehicle that breaks down in cold, harsh winter weather. Winter magnifies existing problems like hard starts, sluggish performance and rough idling,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “Whether you perform the check or maintenance yourself or go to the repair shop, it’s a small investment of time and money to ensure peace of mind, and help avoid the cost and hassle of a breakdown during severe weather.”

The Car Care Council recommends the following Fall Car Care Month checklist to make sure your vehicle is ready for cold winter weather ahead.

Heating, Wipers & Lights

• Make sure heaters, defrosters and wipers work properly.
• Consider winter wiper blades and use cold-weather washer fluid. As a general rule, wiper blades should be replaced every six months.
• Check to see that all exterior and interior lights work and headlights are properly aimed.

Tires & Brakes

• Check the tire tread depth and tire pressure of all tires, including the spare. If snow and ice are a problem in your area, consider special tires designed to grip slick roads.
• During winter, tire pressure should be checked weekly.
• Have the brakes checked. The braking system is the vehicle’s most important safety item.

Gas, Oil & Filters

• Keep your gas tank at least half full throughout the cold weather to prevent moisture from forming in gas lines and possibly freezing.
• Be diligent about changing the oil and filter at recommended intervals. Dirty oil can spell trouble in winter. Consider changing to “winter weight” oil if you live in a cold climate.
• Check the fuel, air and transmission filters at the same time.

System Checks – Charging, Cooling & Exhaust

• Have the battery and charging system checked, as cold weather is hard on batteries.
• Clean, flush and put new antifreeze in the cooling system. As a rule of thumb, this should be done every two years.
• Have the exhaust system checked for carbon monoxide leaks, which can be especially dangerous during cold weather driving when windows are closed.

Pack the Essentials

• Make sure that your ice scraper and snow brush are accessible and ready to use.
• Stock an emergency kit with jumper cables, a flashlight, blankets, extra clothes, bottled water, nonperishable food and a first aid kit with any needed medication.
• Order a free copy of the recently-updated 80-page Car Care Guide for your glove box at www.carcare.org/car-care-guide

 
The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a free copy of the council’s popular Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org.

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Warning Signs of a Failing Alternator

Recently my alternator went out on my 2006 Dodge Stratus SXT. Thankful my dad is my mechanic and he took my alternator to get rebuilt at CS Auto Electric Inc located at 7020 Mableton Pkwy SE 770 941 0003 it was significantly cheaper than buying new one from the Auto Part Store. I recommend doing this ONLY if you have a mechanic that you trust and that is knowledgeable! 

When it comes to your vehicle, the alternator is a pivotal piece of machinery. The alternator re-cycles the power your car battery uses while driving, restoring the power it has lost while supplying the engine management, climate, entertainment and host of other systems with the juice they need to run properly.

 

It takes a lot of battery power to get – and keep – your vehicle running. So much power that if not for the alternator, the battery’s power reserve would not last. Your vehicle’s electrical system depends on an optimally running alternator. When the alternator malfunctions or stops working altogether, it can mean expensive repairs, inconvenience or a break down.

Alternator Warning Signs

Dim lights

The alternator is part of the electrical system of your vehicle. Its key role is to provide power to operate the starter, ignition and all of the electronic accessories in your car. If the alternator starts to die, you might notice your headlights and/or dashboard lights beginning to dim. Once the dash light or headlights dim, it is a clear indication of potential alternator malfunction. A waning alternator may cause other electronic accessories such as power windows and/or power seats to operate a more slowly than usual.

Warning light

Most modern cars have a dashboard warning light that alerts you when the alternator is on the fritz. Usually, the light will be shaped like a battery, though, some might say ALT (for alternator) or GEN (for generator). This light may only trigger if you are using multiple electrical components. It is generally contingent on how much life your vehicle’s alternator has left and how much electricity your vehicle is using.

Weak or dead battery

A car battery, by definition, has a finite life and will not last forever. As good as an alternator is at replenishing your car battery; it can only recharge it to the point that it has a decent amount of life left in it and is able to accept a charge. If the battery is really weak or dead, the alternator cannot bring it back to life. To troubleshoot whether the issue is the alternator or the battery, just charge the battery and restart the vehicle. If the battery is weak or dead, the car will continue to run but the lights will again become dim after a short time, indicating a problem with the charging system. If the vehicle has difficulty starting after the battery is fully charged, the problem likely is with the alternator.

Weird smells

An alternator works in conjunction with a system of belts. If a belt is not turning freely, the excess friction will cause the belt to heat up, which produces a burning rubber smell. If you catch a whiff of a smell similar to that of an electrical fire, this could indicate that the belt is slipping on the alternator pulley, causing poor alternator output. Tightening the belt often does the trick. If the situation arises where tightening your belt does not fix the strange smell and alternator output, we recommend having your alternator evaluated by a professional.

Odd sounds

There are many different parts that spin inside your vehicle’s alternator to produce electrical current. If one of these parts becomes worn or breaks, this could cause a grinding or whining noise. Specifically, worn out bearings inside the alternator have been known to cause this type of noise. If the bushings that the alternator is mounted on have gone bad, a noise will be produced. Alternators are normally replaced as an assembly.

Visual cues

If you are experiencing problems with the electrical system, the alternator itself might be fine because the problem could be with one of the belts connected to the alternator. By doing a visual inspection of the engine compartment, you can determine if a belt is too loose or too tight. If a belt is cracked or worn, you should be able to spot that as well.

Alternator Warning Signs provided by Pep Boys

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Use Technology to Track Your Maintenance

Manually keeping up with your car maintenance can be very tedious. Here are a few apps you can try to make that process a little easier.

Road Trip (iOS) is probably one of the most robust mileage and maintenance tracking apps for iOS available. Tracking fill-ups and mileage is super-fast, as is adding maintenance history, expenses, and reminders for future work. The app has a tire log to track summer and winter wear on your tires, and supports other vehicles like boats and motorcycles. You can track as many vehicles as you like, too. The lite version gives you a taste, but the full version will set you back $5 for the iPhone or the iPad (it's not a universal app, so you'll have to buy it twice for both platforms.)

Car Maintenance Reminder (Android) is a free app that will keep track of your fuel efficiency, cost, and mileage, but also gives you a place to track all of the maintenance and repairs you have done to your vehicle. You can add notes, costs, and of course, get notifications and reminders when you should get some work done. The free version tracks one vehicle. If you have more than one, the $3 pro version is for you. 

AutoCare (iOS/Android): AutoCare has been around for a while, and does a pretty good job of tracking your vehicle's maintenance history, mileage, repair history, service expensives, and more. You can even use it to remind you when it's time to get something specific done so you won't forget. Plus, it supports multiple vehicles. It'll set you back $4 for iOS users, and $2 for Android users.

Car Minder Plus (iOS) is another good, simple app for tracking your mileage and your vehicle maintenance. You get presets for things like oil filters, air filters, belt inspections, and oil changes, and you can enter in your own maintenance work and expenses to the log to keep track of what you've had done. From there, enter in your service intervals, and the app uses simple red/yellow/green indicators to tell you when it's time to get that work done. The app will cost you $3.

aCar (Android) is free, and one of the most popular Android apps for tracking vehicle maintenance and mileage. Tracking fill-ups and mileage is quick, entering in your maintenance history and expenses is easy, and you can even enter specific notes or information about parts you prefer or that your vehicle requires. The app notifies you based on time and/or mileage when you should have work done, and supports custom notifications. aCar Pro adds in multiple languages, home screen widgets for quick access to data and logging, and connections to other popular car apps and websites, all for $6.


Article Source: LifeHacker

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How to Check and Add Air to Car Tires

Keeping the appropriate air pressure in your tires is one way to help maintain the safety of your vehicle. Low air pressure can lead to accidents, extra wear on your tires and overuse of gasoline. Learning how to check and add air to car tires is an essential skill that every driver should master.

1) Purchase tire gauge from an auto store or auto department of a hardware store. Tire gauges measure pounds per square inch (standard) or kilo Pascal's (metric).

2) Determine how much air should be in your tires. 

Look at the writing on the side of your tires or on a sticker on the inner panel of the door. The tire will have a recommended PSI or KPA number. This is the pounds per square inch or kilo Pascal's that your tires need. You can also check your owners manual for this information

3) Check the pressure when the tires are cold, as this is how the automakers list these recommended tire pressures. Tires heat up as you drive, so measuring them while they are hot will give you an inaccurate (overly high) reading. They take about a half hour to cool down. You also can just check the tires first thing in the morning

4) Unscrew the valve cap and set it to the side or in a pocket where you won't lose it

 5) Place the tire gauge onto the tire valve stem

6) Press the tire gauge firmly down on top of the valve stem, and Read the gauge to gain information about the PSI or KPA in your tires

Now you can compare the tire pressure readings you got with the specified amount called for by the manufacturer (on the doorjamb or in the manual). If the level of pressure in your tires is below the specified amount, you need to fill the tires with air

Filling Your Tires
There are at least two ways to refill your tires to bring them up to specification. You can go to an auto parts store and buy a portable air compressor. If you do this you can refill your tires at your house or in your garage.

Most people, however, will just refill their tires at a gas station. Even though many stations charge 75 cents to use their air compressors, you can usually get the attendant to turn on the machine for free.

Adjusting Your Tire Pressure
Here are the steps needed to adjust the pressure in your tires:
1. Pull your car in close to the air compressor so the hose reaches all four tires.
2. Remove the valve stem caps and set them to the side or in a pocket.
3. Insert coins or if the gas station attendant turned it on, you will hear the compressor motor beginning to run.
4. Press the hose fitting down on the valve stem and press the lever. You should feel air flowing through the hose and hear it inflating the tire. This can take a little effort to hold the hose on the valve stem.
5. Check to see when you have enough air pressure in the tires by releasing the inflation lever. The gauge on the hose fitting will show if you have approximately enough air pressure. You can check it again later with your own gauge. At this point, it is better to slightly over inflate the tire.
6. Adjust the pressure in all the tires in the same way. (Note: If the tires are warmed up, you can inflate the tire pressure to 3 psi over the specified amount as a general rule of thumb, but you'd still want to officially check the tires later.)
7. Recheck the tire pressure with the digital gauge. If the pressure is too high, press the gauge down just far enough to release some air from the tire. Check it again.
8. Replace the valve caps on all the tires.

Source: WikiHow

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Maintenance Monday: How-to Check & Refill Engine Coolant

Visually check the engine coolant level in the overflow tank. Your owner's manual has the directions. The level should be between "Low" and "Full" marks. (Don't open the radiator cap or the pressurized overflow tank cap when the engine is hot! The cooling system is under pressure when hot!) If the coolant level is low, you can top it up using recommended type of coolant mixed with water. Again, your owner's manual has the proper way to do it. 

 Add coolant only when the engine is cool. Use only recommended engine coolant. Sometimes engine coolant is sold already premixed with water and sometimes you will have to mix it. Check you owner's manual or read the directions on the coolant bottle. Carefully add the coolant into the overflow tank to make it between "LOW" and "FULL" marks

 If the coolant level drops within a short time after topping up, there may be a leak. Have the coolant system checked - lack of coolant may cause the engine to overheat which may result in serious damage.

Source:

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New Bridgestone Tire Lets Drivers Travel up to 50 Miles on a Flat

Bridgestone Americas announced the launch of a new line of tires aimed at alleviating the worry, frustration and inconvenience associated with a flat tire. DriveGuard tires from Bridgestone are the first full line of mass-market replacement tires available for coupes, sedans and wagons not originally equipped with run-flat tires. Featuring specially designed run-flat technology, DriveGuard tires give drivers the ability to continue driving up to 50 miles (80 kilometers) at maximum speeds of 50 miles (80 kilometers) per hour if a puncture or loss of pressure should occur. 

“There’s never a good time for a flat tire,” said Robert Saul, senior product manager, Bridgestone Americas. “With DriveGuard tires, even if a flat tire strikes, drivers are empowered to keep moving. They can avoid the immediate burden and circumstances, and choose when and where to have their tire repaired or replaced.”

To learn more about DriveGuard tires from Bridgestone, or to find a Bridgestone retailer, consumers should visit www.DriveGuard.com. DriveGuard will be available May 1, 2014

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Wade Ford Opens New Sales and Service Center

To ensure Cobb County residents continue to have the best selection of Ford products and premium service, Wade Ford celebrated the grand reopening of their all-new sales and service facility on Friday night with attendees that include the company’s President & CEO, Alan Mulally, Mayor Max Bacon, Congressman David Scott, employees and customers. This two million dollar renovation brings an even better car buying experience to local residents.

“Wade Ford is following the long tradition of Ford Motor Company in delivering the best products and service to our customers,” Steve Ewing, owner of Wade Ford, said. “Our dealership wants to provide the very best experience to everyone who walks through the door and at the same time continue to support critical program in our growing community.”

Steve Ewing has dedicated his career to the automotive industry and his community. He began at a dealership in New Jersey, rising through the ranks quickly from salesman to manager to general manager. Ewing started with Ford Motor Company in 1992 when he accepted a position as Interim Operator, responsible for managing franchises the automobile company owned. Since then, Ewing has grown with the company, and its network of other dealerships through the Ford Motor Company’s Dealer Development Program. Purchasing Wade Ford in 2002, Ewing’s staff offers new, pre-owned and fleet vehicles from three properties located on South Cobb Drive.

The dealership continues to support the local Atlanta community by sponsoring the Wade Ford Summer Concert Series each year, the Campbell High School Soccer and Football teams and participating in Ford’s Drive One 4 UR School program alternating support for local high schools.

The new dealership, Gwinnett Place Ford Lincoln, is located on 3232 Satellite Blvd, in Duluth, Georgia.

Appearing from left to right – Mr. Ewing (Steve Ewing’s father); Commissioner David Scott; Alan Mulally, President and CEO, Ford Motor Company; Steve Ewing, owner, Wade Ford

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HOW TO: Plug A Tire

So on Friday I made an early run to Ikea came home and hours later I had a flat tire. Thankfully my dad was planning to come over to my house and he noticed it. We went to Auto Zone and purchased the Slime/Tire Plug Kit $5.79 [ I highly recommend purchasing this and having it in your Emergency Kit]

Pictured below is the culprit the screw that caused my flat tire

My dad removed the screw and started the repair process.

Slime Tire Plug Kit x Instructions x Video

Video courtesy of: AutoMoto Mods

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Road Trip Checklist

The most critical areas to check before going on a driving trip are engine fluids, radiator hoses, belts, tires and brakes. Appropriately preparing these key areas of the automobile before you leave for your trip will not only keep you safe while driving, it’ll also help prevent costly repairs.

1. Engine Oil
Check your oil levels and the date you’re due for an oil change. If you’re close to the manufacturer-recommended oil-change then go ahead and change it. 

2. Transmission and Differential Fluids
Did you forget about the other fluid reservoirs in your car? Both your transmission and drive axle have their own lubricant supply. Check your owner’s manual for their change intervals. They are usually quite a bit longer than those for engine oil, but if your car has over 75,000 miles and you’ve never checked or changed these other lubricants, it’s time to get busy. 

3. Hoses
Look for bulges or blisters in hoses, which indicate a weakness in the wall. If your hoses have cracks or blisters, replace them. As a precaution, buy a hose-patch kit at the local auto parts store to keep in the glove compartment.  

4. Belts
Check belts by turning them sideways with your hand so you can see the friction surface. If they’re even the slightest bit ragged, torn, cracked or showing the fiber cords, it’s time for fresh ones. Consult your service manual for instructions

5. Engine Coolant
New vehicles come equipped with engine coolant designed to go 100,000 to 150,000 miles. If your car is less than four years old, just check that the under-hood coolant reservoir—usually a clear plastic bottle that says “engine coolant” on the cap—is topped off. Not all coolants are the same and it’s not a good idea to mix them, so be sure to use the same coolant type that is already in the engine. Consult your owner’s manual for the correct type.  

6. Tire Pressure and Tread
Low tire pressure can decrease fuel economy, but more important, may cause the tire to run hotter from the extra friction, leading to a blowout. Before you hit the road, be sure to check the pressure in all four tires using a good gauge (available from your auto parts store). If it is too low, an air hose is usually available at most gas stations. It’s also important to look at the tread on all four tires to make sure they’re not too worn or unevenly worn. If your tires are questionable in terms of wear, or have a bubble in the sidewall from a recent bounce against a curb, it’s best to install new tires now rather than take a chance on them wearing out while you’re on the road. 

7. Brake System  
Rusted brakes are bad. Check your brake reservoir for the color of the fluid and make sure that it is topped off up to the full mark. If you haven’t had a flush in the last two or three years, get one before you leave. While you’re at it, go ahead and have your brake pads and rotors checked, replacing them if they’re worn so you can stop on a dime in an emergency situation.
 
8. Battery
Have your electrical system checked to make sure it is charging at the correct rate. If your battery is more than four years old, it might be a good idea to replace it before your trip. Check the battery condition visually. If you see any leaks, cracks or any other damage, do replace the battery. Make sure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. 


Main Image: Google
Source: AskPatty.com

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Do-It-Yourself: Changing Your Front Brakes

Most new cars require brake service during the first 30,000 to 42,000 miles. It is also important to inspect them for wear before every winter and summer, because extreme temperatures may affect the brakes' effectiveness. Most basic brake repairs are relatively simple to do, as long as you work slowly and carefully follow the manufacturer's guidelines.

Buy the Service Manual.
It contains essential information for doing the job right the first time. 

Getting Started
Jack the car up and remove the wheel and tire.  

Remove the Caliper.
Check to see how much friction is on the rotor by turning it by hand. A small amount of drag is normal. Remove the caliper so you can inspect the condition of the rotor. To do this, loosen the bleeder screw, located on the back of the caliper. Then, disconnect the flex hose, (which is connected from the caliper to the car) by loosening the fitting that attaches it to the car. At this point, place a your metal pan beneath the caliper to catch any remaining brake fluid coming out. Then, remove the caliper retaining bolts and rock the unit back and pull it away from the rotor. 

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Car Checklist: What every woman should know about her car

How much do you know about how to keep your car in amazing condition? I found this amazing essential car checklist on vistamagazine.com check it out below:

Engine

Car checklist tip number One: Getting your oil changed is the cornerstone of routine engine maintenance. Engine oil doesn't exactly age well while in your car. In fact, it breaks down over time, becoming less of the smooth, lubricating substance that your engine loves and more of a liquid sludge. Buildup can accumulate on your engine's interior surfaces. All of this can lead to reduced fuel efficiency , and it can reduce the life of your motor. As a general rule, getting your oil changed every 3,000 to 5,000 miles is a good car maintenance habit. Use an upgraded oil only if your car owner's manual recommends it — otherwise, you may be wasting your money. To keep your engine in great shape, you should also change your air filter once a year or every 20,000 miles.

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